Monday, July 28, 2014

Our Desert Lands

July 21, 2014 © Thomas J. Kollenborn. All Rights Reserved.

The City of Apache Junction has become one of the most unique areas in the Salt River Valley in their attempt to preserve portions of the Sonoran Desert.

The Superstition Wilderness Area and the desert that surrounds it is a vast region of a delicately balanced ecosystem. There is no ecosystem in the world more fragile than a desert environment except for the high latitude tundra. Humankind has for centuries played a major role impacting the Upper Sonoran Desert.

The various Native American groups have used the region for several thousand years in subsistence hunting and gathering modes, and their use of these fragile ecosystems mildly impacted them. Many of the ancient archaeological sites found in the area today are a mute testimony to the existence of these cultures. The ancient sites are rapidly disappearing as the desert continues to be developed.

Most modern development allows no desert greenbelts at all for minimal survival of fauna and flora in the Sonoran Desert, unless you want to call a golf course a greenbelt. It is a tragic sacrifice for what we get in return— more air pollution, more traffic, more water quality problems and more crime.

Early prospectors searched for mineral wealth in these mountains long before the tales and myths of lost gold and treasure emerged. There is some evidence that suggests early Mexican prospectors from Sonora and along the Gila River may have entered the region of Superstition Mountains as early as 1799.

The first American miners penetrated the area about 1863. These were small parties of prospectors coming down from the Bradshaw Mountains near Prescott during the winter months. Once silver was discovered in the Pinal Mountains in late 1860’s the Anglo-American population began to grow in the area. 

The miners and prospectors were soon followed by the cattlemen. The early years of the cattle barons were totally unregulated. Thousands of cattle roamed the canyons and mountains of the Superstition Wilderness Area.  One of the earliest of the cattlemen was Robert A. Irion.   He arrived in the area with a herd about 1878 from Wyoming. His ranch was located halfway between Miami and Superior at what we call Sutton’s Summit today. Irion brought beef on the hoof to feed the miners at Globe and the Silver King. He was followed by other cattlemen like Jack Fraser, Ed Horrell and W.J. Clemans.

Fraser started his herd with three hundred-head of cattle won in a poker game at the Silver King Hotel. When Fraser sold out to W.J. Clemans in 1909, more than 5,000 head of cattle roamed the Superstition range. All of this activity severely impacted the fragile Sonoran Desert ecosystem. 

Regulated grazing was introduced to the Superstition Wilderness with the formation of the Tonto Preserve in 1909. The purpose of the preserve was to protect the watershed of the Salt River drainage system and not the fragile ecosystem of the Sonoran Desert.  The creators of the Salt River Drainage Basin feared overgrazing would cause severe soil erosion therefore destroy the drainage basin planned for natural runoff. When Roosevelt Dam was completed in March of 1911 the Salt River had finally been controlled. Flooding was prevented along the river and water storage for the Salt River Valley was then reality.

After the turn of the century and the death of Jacob Waltz, the alleged Lost Dutchman, hundred of treasure hunters, gold prospectors, and promoters searched the area for gold. Their efforts produced several books and a few permanent scars on the land.  Their unique history still survives to this day, but in reality did little damage to the Sonoran Desert. Those permanent scars are now monuments to the determination and tenacity of those who searched for gold and treasure, right or wrong.

The cattlemen, prospectors, miners, and treasure trove hunters for more than a hundred and twenty years have impacted the Superstition Wilderness Area. The hundreds of holes produced by these people not only scared the landscape but also created dangerous pitfalls for the innocent or novice adventurer. Their many trails lead from one place to another.

During the mid-1960’s the wilderness received yet another kind of human impact.  The impact caused by the recreationist. This group fell into two large categories, the hikers and horsemen.

The overuse and the improvement of the trail system for these recreational users created a critical management problem for forest service. These new trail systems impacted the terrain to such a degree the trails were visible from space, the air and high vantage points.   

The sheer numbers of recreationists who use the Superstition Wilderness have heavily impacted the trailheads, trails, water sources, and campsites. This impact dramatically affected the fauna and flora.

Stone rings used for campfires are found throughout the wilderness even though the forest rangers have a campaign to reduce them.  There are areas where the vegetation is totally denuded, even in isolated and remote locations.

There are three modern forms of litter found throughout the wilderness since the 1960’s. They are filters from cigarettes, pop-tops from cans and gum wrappers. These are monuments to contemporary human occupancy and use of the region in the 20th Century.  Maybe by the 21st Century we will realize how important open space and desert greenbelts will be to future generations. If we don’t recognize the importance of desert greenbelts most of the upper Sonoran Desert life zone will be lost to our society and future generations.

If we are to maintain the beauty and solitude of this urban wilderness and the desert around it we need to examine our priorities and express concern about what is happening to our lifestyle here in the desert. 

Apache Junction has become one of the most unique areas in the Salt River Valley in addition to Scottsdale to make an attempt to preserve portions of the Sonoran Desert. How important is this desert lifestyle? Ask any real estate agent about property values adjacent to forest service lands in the Apache Junction area.

The desert has always been a part of our lifestyle here. If we are to enjoy this beautiful desert we must educate people on how to care for it and how delicate it really is. We must also learn how to preserve it for the future. This we must do now. 

The City of Apache Junction has taken an initiative to protect natural areas in greenbelts. Hopefully the citizen’s of our community will support these attempts to preserve the desert for future residents. 

Recently a business magazine of national significance rated Apache Junction as the fourth best city in the United States to live in. The Apache Junction City Council has always supported greenbelts and recreational areas. Your city’s desire to preserve open spaces for the future is unique among city politicians around our great nation.

Pinal County has also recently become involved with desert preservation. Believe me, we will need these desert preserves for future generations of Americans.